The Front Entry Garden Room
The photo album for The Front Entry Garden Room
The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The photo album The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The photo album for The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The photo album for the The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The Boulevard Garden
The photo album for The Boulevard Garden
The Strip between the Driveways
The photo album for The Strip between the Driveways
The Woodland Garden Room
The photo album for The Woodland Garden
The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The photo album for The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The Japanese and Moss Garden Room
The Japanese and Moss Garden photo album
The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The photo album of the The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The photo album for The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The Cutting Garden including vegetables, herbs
The Cutting Garden Room photo album
The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The photo album for The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The Fish Pond Note: this is a new water page, not a list page
Pond Plants Note: this is the list page for the Plants in the Pond and the deck tub.
The photo album for the Pond Plants
The Light garden and Orchids
The photo album for The Light garden and Orchids
B. C. INVASIVE PLANTS list.
Perennial Pruning
A good look at how to prune a few perennials
Not only do perennials make a statement, they’re also relatively low-maintenance and give you a bang for your buck with their yearly return.
However, some perennials don’t thrive when pruned in the cold weather and others don’t thrive if they’re pruned too early in the season. So, which perennials are best to cut back in the fall and which ones are good to keep until the spring? Read on to find out.
Perennials to cut back in the fall
YARROW (Achillea)
This long-blooming perennial is often used in butterfly and rock gardens as an edging plant. They come in a variety of colours and are known for their vibrant, feathery foliage.
Yarrow doesn’t thrive in cold or wet soil and often stops actively growing in the fall. This is a great time to cut back its lowest leaves to give the plant enough time for its new growth to emerge in the spring.
Tall Garden PHLOX
Tall garden phlox is another perennial that adds a pop of colour to any garden. They often grow in tall clumps and are known for their cluster of blooms at the top of their stalks.
Unfortunately, phlox is prone to powdery mildew so cutting the stems and foliage back in the fall can prevent the plant from getting infected. This can also help the plant increase airflow and prevent disease.
PEONY
Peony is a magnificent addition to any garden space. They are captivating, have large, full blooms and come in over 30 different species. With this plant also comes careful handling and care in order for them to thrive in your garden.
Similar to phlox, peonies are prone to mildew which is why cutting them back in the fall is important. This will also give your peonies enough time to set buds for the spring season.
Tall BEARDED IRIS
Tall Bearded iris is an easy and stunning plant to grow. Their sword-like leaves offer a unique display to your outdoor space, and come in a variety of solid and bi-colours.
As the foliage of this plant begins to flop early in the growing season, it may become prone to pests and fungal diseases. As soon as the plant is done blooming in the fall, cut the flower stalk and remove any damaged or diseased leaves.
DAYLILY
If you’re looking to create a pollinator habitat in your garden, daylilies are an attractive plant to butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Removing spent flower stalks of daylilies in the fall can encourage new flowers in the spring and save you garden cleanup time during the spring season. Removing diseased parts of the plant can also protect the plant from getting infected.
GAILLARDIA
Gaillardia is a perennial that is often compared to daisies due to their shape and rich coloured-flowers. They’re relatively easy to grow, and their red and yellow shades are guaranteed to make a showy display during the warmer months.
Pruning these perennials in the fall can result in a fuller, healthier plant and steady blooming.
Perennials to prune in spring
LAVENDER
Lavender is a fragrant garden favourite for many reasons including its attractive display, aroma and versatile uses.
A lot of areas struggle with over-wintering due to moisture and the cold, however, they can benefit from pruning winter dieback after new growth has appeared in the spring as new growth can be sensitive to the cold.
GAYFEATHER (Liatris spicata)
Gay feather, also known as blazing star, is known for their signature grass-like leaves and reddish-purple colour varieties. Rather than being sensitive to cold weather, they are more sensitive to cold, wet soil.
During the winter, their flower heads can be left in place for winter-feeding birds. Any garden debris in the spring is important to clean before new growth begins.
MUMS (Chrysanthemum)
Mums are great, vibrant plants for potted plants and garden use. They come in several colour varieties perfect for creating an enchanting arrangement when placed together in any garden.
Mums are a perennial that can benefit from keeping their foliage over the winter in order to protect their root crowns.
LAMBS EARS
Lamb’s ears are known for their silvery foliage and are extremely drought-tolerant. They love the sun and work well in rock gardens or dry spots in garden beds.
With these perennials, it is best to leave them as-is for the winter as their foliage can protect the crowns of their plants. In the spring, garden cleanup will be relatively simple while you’ll only have to rake loose foliage.
SAGE (Salvia yangii)
Sage is another perennial that is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. Similar to lavender, sage doesn’t benefit from cutting back in the fall as its growth is sensitive to cold weather.
In the spring once new growth of this plant appears, it is best to cut back to about 6 to 8 inches to allow their growth buds to resprout.
CORAL BELLS (Heuchera)
If there’s one perennial that is the epitome of fall, it’s coral bells, also known as heuchera. They have show-stopping foliage and new varieties of this plant are introduced every year.
These perennials are best to keep until spring as they are adept at protecting themselves during the fall and winter. Leaving the foliage of coral bells intact during the fall can help mulch the plants through the winter season, making it best to prune in the spring season.
The Surroundings of the Pond Garden Room
See the photo album for the Plants in the Pond Surrounds.
The photo album for the garden paths and art helps define each of the garden rooms. Also shows some of the renovations to the previously existing garden rooms. There is garden 'art' such as the Mermaid that sits on top of the waterfall. See the the changes 2 page for more defination of this Ponds surrounds Garden Room. On the side of the Cutting Garden this area has the yew hedge, the small boxwood hedge in front of it. With the entry way to the pond area by the bay laurel. It has the cement and field stone paths surrounding the area. Next to the pond there is a small area of pondside plants on each side, and includes the waterfall with the mermaid. There is another entryway into the pond area from the Cutting garden. This side of the pond has some evergreen trees and shrubs screening the pond from the neighbours. On the opposite side, this garden room borders the moss garden room, parts of the drystream and the viewing platform, as described in the Deck and Surrounds photo album. We continue around the corner on the cement pavers back to the waterfall. There is more history of the water garden on: the Old water page, the new water page, and the continuation of the water pages on the fish pond page.
See the photo album of the plants surrounding the pond.
See for the plants IN pond
and see for the photo album of the Plants IN the pond.
The Plants surrounding the Pond
ASTILBE - Astilbe is a perennial with beautiful, showy flowers atop glossy, fern-like foliage.
Here’s how to grow and care for astilbes in your garden. Make sure to plant the division in consistently moist, humus-rich soil. Dry soil can be fatal to your plants. To prolong the foliage, provide shade from hot afternoon sun. Astilbes can grow in deep shade, but will not flower as much. Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety. They grow beside the observation platform.
May 2019 - they were growing through the Japanese lantern. The lantern now sits in front of the old stump where the dry stream curves under the deck.
Astilbes from my old plant list: Sprite - Pink dwarf
Finale - Pink
Bridal Veil - White
Mount Etna - Red
Astilbe chinensis var. pumila (Dwarf Chinese Astilbe) Mine is a dark red and grows to about a foot high. Unless it is the Sprite referred to above.
JAPANESE ARALIA
Fatsia japonica, also fatsi, paperplant, false castor oil plant, or Japanese aralia, is a species of flowering plant in the family Araliaceae, native to southern Japan and southern Korea.
It is an evergreen shrub growing to 1–5 m (3 ft 3 in – 16 ft 5 in) tall, with stout, sparsely branched stems. The leaves are spirally-arranged, large, 20–40 cm (7.9–15.7 in) in width and on a petiole up to 50 cm (20 in) long, leathery, palmately lobed, with 7–9 broad lobes, divided to half or two-thirds of the way to the base of the leaf; the lobes are edged with coarse, blunt teeth. The flowers are small, white, borne in dense terminal compound umbels in late autumn or early winter, followed by small black fruit in spring.
The name fatsi is an approximation of the Japanese word for 'eight' (hachi in modern romanization), referring to the eight leaf lobes. In Japan it is known as yatsude, meaning "eight fingers". The name "Japanese aralia" is due to the genus being classified in the related genus Aralia in the past. It has been interbred with Hedera helix (common ivy) to produce the intergeneric hybrid × Fatshedera lizei.
Mine has never bloomed.
Grows under the deck by the drystream and overhangs the old stump and the Japanese lantern in 2024.
GLOBE FLOWER (Trollius Chinensis)
My globe flower grows in a smaller white pot that sits beside the tub water feature. It has
2 - 2.5 inch bowl-shaped golden yellow to orange flowers. Blooms in Spring. 3 feet (90 cm)tall. Placement: Borders, beside wet areas. Care: Plant in moist soil in area with morning sun and afternoon shade. Intolerant to heat. There is another of these Globe flowers in a black gallon pot sitting on the shelf of the pond but does not do well in the water. I shall move it out of the pond to just beside the pond and try to keep it moist.
More information on the globe flower.
CLEMATIS: Nelly Moser
The clematis grows beside the viewing platform and climbs up to the deck where it surrounds the water tub feature with blooms for most of the summer. It is a wonderful addition to the garden. I have a delephinium that persists in growing with the clematis. I have some wire supports that keep the clematis growing close to the deck.
More information on the Nelly Moser Clematis.
ARABIS snow cap - (Arabis caucasica) variegated foliage - white flowers
- Procurrens sturrii - Caucasica Rock Cress
ARABIS ferdinandi-coburgii 'Variegata' Variegata foliage, white flowers grows at the edge of the pond, falling down over the edge; across the cement paver from the Clematis
DELPHINIUMS - Space or thin to 30-45cm (12-18″) between plants. Deep, rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. For the most bloom potential, water well throughout the season, and feed once in the early spring. Remove spent flowers immediately after the first bloom, and feed again. My delphinium has steel blue flowers with no coloured bee. It grows with the Clematis, next to the viewing platform. I should get more of these plants for the Cutting Garden and perhaps in front of the cedars next to the waterfall.
POLYANTHUS are a type of primula (Primula x polyantha) which produces incredibly bright cheerful flowers from July through to October. They thrive and are almost indestructible if planted in fertile, humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. Make sure they sit in a partially shaded spot protected from the hot summer sun and the soil does not dry out. There are several Polyanthus growing around the shade garden. I am able to divide them and move them around the garden. There are some growing around the viewing platform and across the cement pavers with the Arabis.
DUTCH IRIS dutch iris I have J.S. Dyt Dwarf Iris and a few taller ones in mixed colors, growing in the little area next to the field stone path that leads along one side of the pond, from the entry way. They are easy care plants and echo the water irises in the pond, only with more variety in the colors.
In this same area there are some pink HYACINTHS, some blue MUSCARI grape Hyacinths, a lovely dark red fringed TULIP, a Little Lemon Solidgo GOLDENROD (Dansolitem), and another fall blooming perennial that is doing very well.
The LEBANON CEDAR grows at the corner of this 'old stump bed' and where the cement pavers to up the path and around the corner of the pond. It hangs over the pond. It is next to the cement pavers around the deck side of the pond. The SMALL CEDAR grows across the pavers from the Lebanon cedar, in front of the Astilbes. I keep both of these shrubs clipped to shape them.
The pond has two trays of SEDUM replacing some of the field stones of the rock 'neck lace' around the pond. These rocks were constantly sliding into the pond. The trays are levelled with boards beneath them and are tied to stakes to keep them from being pushed or sliding into the pond. This area of pond edging has been working very well over the last few years.
WULFENIA
Wulfenia x schwarzii: this tough and compact perennial is perfect for morning sun or part shade! In the Plantain family, it is related to Veronica & Parahebe. Dense rosettes of leathery leaves are crowned by spikes of soft violet-purple flowers for 3 or 4 months in spring and early summer. Neat & tidy and oh so pretty! It grows between the sedum trays and the cement pavers.
LYSIMACHIA punctata - Yellow loosestrife forms a bushy clump of leaves, with loose spikes of bright yellow star-shaped flowers that bloom in early to mid-summer. Leaves are light green, with serrated edges, and range from 3-10 cm long. Stems grow 60-150 cm tall and are sturdy, hairy and dotted with red or black spots.
Yellow loosestrife is a fast-spreading perennial plant native to central Europe and Turkey. It can form dense clumps that spread out over large areas, crowding out native plants. Yellow loosestrife prefers moist soils, and is typically found in wet roadsides, ditches, along shorelines and wetlands.
INVASIVE PLANT - Contact with this plant may cause skin irritation or an allergic reaction. A list of B.C invasive plants. Because the yellow loosestrife is on the list I have had to remove it.
DWARF ENGLISH BOXWOOD: Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa' is a small hedge growing in front of the YEW hedge along the Cutting Garden Room side of this pond area. The BAY LAUREL and a GLOBE CEDAR complete the plants along this side of the Plants Surrounding the Pond.
WILLOWS
Salix – boyd's pendula – Pond edge with its root in the water, by the waterfall and across the cement pavers from the YEW and BOXWOOD hedge.
Salix – silver leaves, yellow bark – Probably Salix helvetica. Tough plant, I can prune it to what ever size I want. Grows by the pond with roots in water, at the corner of the pond across from the waterfall, in the "plum tree stump" area. Has pussy willows now at the end of April 2024.
FEATURES in the area surrounding the pond
There is a VIEWING PLATFORM by the clematis that climbs up to the deck railings. The viewing platform is about 4 feet by four feet made of cement pavers and a few field stones. From the viewing platform there is a set of plastic stepping stones that lead to the seating area under the deck.
All of the area under the deck will need renovation and some new plants for privacy screening along the trashed cedar hedge.
The DRY STREAM runs off the pathway of field stones at the juncture of this pathway and the flat cement pavers that go around the pond. The dry stream will need to be under layed with left over epdm or black plastic and then have pea gravel and small rocks added. Then I should be able to control the moss or weeds from growing in the dry stream. Perhaps with boiling water.
The JAPANESE LANTERN currently sits by the old stump under the over hanging Aralia leaves. It needs to grow moss again. It may be moved again someday as I am not entirely satisfied with where it is right now.
The WATERFALL falls into the water from the corner of the pond that is backed by the evergreen shrubs and trees along the property line. The waterfall has about a one foot drop from the spillway to a short run through round stones and then drops into the pond from a height of about eighteen inches. This area needs constant attention as the squirrels and other critters are constantly moving the rocks on it around.
There is more work to be done on the waterfall and the the dry stream.
This brings us to the end of the pond and its surrounding area where we see the evergreen cedars and shrubs along the property between the nefarious neighbours and my propery.
These people are constantly destroying my plants along this whole side of my property, from the back fence to the street out front. They insist on having the cedar hedge, the camillia and other plants cut right back to what they consider the property line. They have added a plank on my property along beside the cedar hedge and so encroaching even more on my propery. They have cut down 2 little cedars that were at the other end of the house. God knows what else they have been doing to the rhodos and the camillia. There is a little azalea that has been killed. They throw the weeds and leaves they take out of their garden at the back over onto my garden. And have cut branches off the Oak tree. Their laundry post is on the property line. They moved it from the first place they had it, after the inspection was done on their building, (as well as adding some more feet onto that end of their house). They steal any gardening tools I leave out. They throw things into the pond, including the mermaid. They pick fruit off my plum tree. Some day, perhaps on selling the place, I will need a Surveyor's Certificate and then the ship will hit the sand.
Annual Gardening pages
January - we occasionally get snow.
February - more rain, and some
bulbs up
March - first spring bulbs
blooming
April - rock plants blooming,
grass needs mowing, fruit trees blooming
May - the garden is in full
swing
June - lovely warm days of
medium temperatures and roses in bloom
July - we need to water a lot
in the summer as we do not often get rain.
August - the Fall perennials
starting to bloom and fruit is ripening
September - harvest time in the
vegetable garden and time to plant the winter garden
October - glorious fall colors
and sunsets, fruit ripening and rains begin again
November - sometimes a lovely
month with the Fall colors and warm rains
December - more rain, the garden
is mostly greens and browns, very peaceful.
Annual Journal Notes - This is the first page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2012 when I began to keep my garden notes on my computer. See the bottom of this first page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2013 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2013 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2014 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2014 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2015 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2015 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2016 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2016 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2017 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2017 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2018 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2018 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2019 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2019 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2020 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2020 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2021 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2021 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2022 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2022 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2023 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2023 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2024 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2024 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2025 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2025 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2026 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2026 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Outline of the garden changes - This is the first page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden.
A description of the garden rooms - This is the second page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden, and showing the creation of the garden rooms as well as some of the renovations over the years.
Annual Garden changes photo albums The third page of the series will be annual photo albums of the changes in the garden for the year, beginning in 2009.
