The Front Entry Garden Room
The photo album for The Front Entry Garden Room
The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The photo album The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The photo album for The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The photo album for the The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The Boulevard Garden
The photo album for The Boulevard Garden
The Strip between the Driveways
The photo album for The Strip between the Driveways
The Woodland Garden Room
The photo album for The Woodland Garden
The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The photo album for The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The Japanese and Moss Garden Room
The Japanese and Moss Garden photo album
The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The photo album of the The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The photo album for The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The Cutting Garden including vegetables, herbs
The Cutting Garden Room photo album
The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The photo album for The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The Fish Pond Note: this is a new water page, not a list page
Pond Plants Note: this is the list page for the Plants in the Pond and the deck tub.
The photo album for the Pond Plants
The Light garden and Orchids
The photo album for The Light garden and Orchids
B. C. INVASIVE PLANTS list.
Perennial Pruning
A good look at how to prune a few perennials
Not only do perennials make a statement, they’re also relatively low-maintenance and give you a bang for your buck with their yearly return.
However, some perennials don’t thrive when pruned in the cold weather and others don’t thrive if they’re pruned too early in the season. So, which perennials are best to cut back in the fall and which ones are good to keep until the spring? Read on to find out.
Perennials to cut back in the fall
YARROW (Achillea)
This long-blooming perennial is often used in butterfly and rock gardens as an edging plant. They come in a variety of colours and are known for their vibrant, feathery foliage.
Yarrow doesn’t thrive in cold or wet soil and often stops actively growing in the fall. This is a great time to cut back its lowest leaves to give the plant enough time for its new growth to emerge in the spring.
Tall Garden PHLOX
Tall garden phlox is another perennial that adds a pop of colour to any garden. They often grow in tall clumps and are known for their cluster of blooms at the top of their stalks.
Unfortunately, phlox is prone to powdery mildew so cutting the stems and foliage back in the fall can prevent the plant from getting infected. This can also help the plant increase airflow and prevent disease.
PEONY
Peony is a magnificent addition to any garden space. They are captivating, have large, full blooms and come in over 30 different species. With this plant also comes careful handling and care in order for them to thrive in your garden.
Similar to phlox, peonies are prone to mildew which is why cutting them back in the fall is important. This will also give your peonies enough time to set buds for the spring season.
Tall BEARDED IRIS
Tall Bearded iris is an easy and stunning plant to grow. Their sword-like leaves offer a unique display to your outdoor space, and come in a variety of solid and bi-colours.
As the foliage of this plant begins to flop early in the growing season, it may become prone to pests and fungal diseases. As soon as the plant is done blooming in the fall, cut the flower stalk and remove any damaged or diseased leaves.
DAYLILY
If you’re looking to create a pollinator habitat in your garden, daylilies are an attractive plant to butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Removing spent flower stalks of daylilies in the fall can encourage new flowers in the spring and save you garden cleanup time during the spring season. Removing diseased parts of the plant can also protect the plant from getting infected.
GAILLARDIA
Gaillardia is a perennial that is often compared to daisies due to their shape and rich coloured-flowers. They’re relatively easy to grow, and their red and yellow shades are guaranteed to make a showy display during the warmer months.
Pruning these perennials in the fall can result in a fuller, healthier plant and steady blooming.
Perennials to prune in spring
LAVENDER
Lavender is a fragrant garden favourite for many reasons including its attractive display, aroma and versatile uses.
A lot of areas struggle with over-wintering due to moisture and the cold, however, they can benefit from pruning winter dieback after new growth has appeared in the spring as new growth can be sensitive to the cold.
GAYFEATHER (Liatris spicata)
Gay feather, also known as blazing star, is known for their signature grass-like leaves and reddish-purple colour varieties. Rather than being sensitive to cold weather, they are more sensitive to cold, wet soil.
During the winter, their flower heads can be left in place for winter-feeding birds. Any garden debris in the spring is important to clean before new growth begins.
MUMS (Chrysanthemum)
Mums are great, vibrant plants for potted plants and garden use. They come in several colour varieties perfect for creating an enchanting arrangement when placed together in any garden.
Mums are a perennial that can benefit from keeping their foliage over the winter in order to protect their root crowns.
LAMBS EARS
Lamb’s ears are known for their silvery foliage and are extremely drought-tolerant. They love the sun and work well in rock gardens or dry spots in garden beds.
With these perennials, it is best to leave them as-is for the winter as their foliage can protect the crowns of their plants. In the spring, garden cleanup will be relatively simple while you’ll only have to rake loose foliage.
SAGE (Salvia yangii)
Sage is another perennial that is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. Similar to lavender, sage doesn’t benefit from cutting back in the fall as its growth is sensitive to cold weather.
In the spring once new growth of this plant appears, it is best to cut back to about 6 to 8 inches to allow their growth buds to resprout.
CORAL BELLS (Heuchera)
If there’s one perennial that is the epitome of fall, it’s coral bells, also known as heuchera. They have show-stopping foliage and new varieties of this plant are introduced every year.
These perennials are best to keep until spring as they are adept at protecting themselves during the fall and winter. Leaving the foliage of coral bells intact during the fall can help mulch the plants through the winter season, making it best to prune in the spring season.
The Moss/Japanese Garden Room
See the photo album for the Moss garden photo album
The photo album for the garden paths and art helps define each of the garden rooms. Also shows some of the renovations to the previously existing garden rooms. There is garden 'art' such as the Mermaid that sits on top of the waterfall. See the the changes 2 page for more defination of this Moss/Japanese Garden Room. An excerpt from the changes 2 Page: "From 2006 to 2014 as I type this, I have been encouraging the moss to grow in the little Japanese type garden beside the pond, along the dry stream, and under the deck. This blog post in July of 2013 shows the moss garden along the dry stream and under the deck. I have been keeping the moss free of ferns and other plants except for the welsh poppies which are lovely and delicate blooming over the moss. There are stepping stones starting from the primulas, through the hellebore, white azeleya and the rhodo going under the deck (duck your head -- this garden is built for gnomes) and step over the dry stream where there are now board stepping stones through the new moss and ferns."
The Moss/Japanese Garden Room is now the area that starts at the old sidewalk and goes along the stepping stone path bordering the Deck and Surrounds Garden next to the rhodos. In front of the rhodos there are primulas growing in the moss. Following the stepping stones we go around the corner past the entry to the Cutting garden and around the corner again to follow the field stone path to the dry stream. Within this mossy area surrounded by the plants in the Deck and Surrounding Plants Garden Room and along the stepping stones path and the field stone path to the dry stream are the primulas, the epimediums, a camas, several volunteer foxgloves, a mugo pine, a very nice little red Japanese maple, a false bamboo, a mountain laurel, a lily of valley shrub, and Harry Lauders walking stick, a small maidenhair fern, shooting stars, chocolat lillies, a small hosta, and others I may have forgotten. Some of plants might be mentioned in the pond surrounds page as well. The stepping stones that go from the old sidewalk, past the rhodos and the primulas, and turn the corner at the false bamboo to go into the pond area, have moss and Sicilian mint growing between the stones. More of the Plants in the moss garden may include parts of the drystream and the viewing platform, as described in the Deck and Surrounds photo album.
There is more history of the water garden on: the Old water page, the new water page, and the continuation of the water pages on the fish pond page.
See the photo album of the plants surrounding the pond.
See for the plants IN pond
and see for the photo album of the Plants IN the pond.
The Plants in the Moss/Japanese Garden Room
MOSS LICHENS ALGAE
The benefits of Moss
Clean air is essential for our health, and clean air measures are good for our well being as well as being good for the planet. Moss is one of nature's best air filters with the ability to absorb and metabolise fine dust and particles, helping to naturally clean the air we breathe.
The results found that in 2 minutes, Moss Pure purified the air of 30% of carbon dioxide. That's 300,000 ppm of carbon dioxide for every square foot of living moss! Moss Pure also captures pollutant particles such as dust, allergens, metals, and bacteria and viruses.
Moss lawns are nature's velvet carpets, and they're very beneficial to the surrounding ecosystem. A small moss lawn can absorb more carbon than 275 mature trees. They also: Produce a ton of oxygen.
The basis of the use of mosses due to their antimicrobial activities are their use in the treatment of various diseases. For example, in the treatment of various diseases such as acne, hemorrhoids, and skin diseases, the active substance called Sphagnol, which is found in the Sphagnum genus moss, is used.
Mosses bind CO2 and convert it into oxygen via photosynthesis. A moss mat (60 *80cm) processes one kilogram of CO2 per year. Mosses are amazingly resistant and even work at slightly sub-zero temperatures. In addition, mosses filter substances that are harmful to the climate, such as soot particles.
Also see Here for more information on the benefits of moss in the garden.
And see David Badke's albums on Flicker.
ASTILBE - Astilbe is a perennial with beautiful, showy flowers atop glossy, fern-like foliage.
Here’s how to grow and care for astilbes in your garden. Make sure to plant the division in consistently moist, humus-rich soil. Dry soil can be fatal to your plants. To prolong the foliage, provide shade from hot afternoon sun. Astilbes can grow in deep shade, but will not flower as much. Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety. They grow beside the observation platform.
May 2019 - they were growing through the Japanese lantern. The lantern now sits in front of the old stump where the dry stream curves under the deck.
Astilbes from my old plant list: Sprite - Pink dwarf
Finale - Pink
Bridal Veil - White
Mount Etna - Red
Astilbe chinensis var. pumila (Dwarf Chinese Astilbe) Mine is a dark red and grows to about a foot high. Unless it is the Sprite referred to above.
ANEMONELLA Anemonella thalictroides (Rue Anemone)
Latin Name Pronunciation: ah-nem-on-el'-lah. A native of Eastern woodlands, this diminutive charmer has delicate blue-green foliage reminiscent of Maidenhair Fern, topped by flowers shaped like tiny Anemones in spring to early summer. Only reaching four to six inches, plants are deer resistant and low maintenance. They may be slow to establish, but given time will spread to form colonies 12 inches across. Divide in early spring. Light/Watering: Rue Anemone requires part to full shade. This plant will flower for longer period if sufficient moisture is received, so water if conditions become dry in spring. Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Anemonella thrives in moist, sharply drained soils rich in humus. A neutral soil is preferred (6.8-7.0), so add lime if your soil is more acidic. Pests/Diseases: Protect from slugs if they are a problem, and allow good air circulation to avoid powdery mildew. Companions: Ferns, Primula, Erythronium, Claytonia virginica, and Cyclamen coum make lovely woodland companions.
BRUNNERA
Brunnera macrophylla Jack Frost Lost this plant - Must get another one. It is on my wish list.
Prized for its large highly frosted and veined heart-shaped leaves. Brunnera Jack Frost
produces a truly spectacular display in the shade, even more so when in bloom with its bright
blue Forget-me-not flowers in spring. Will multiply politely.This early spring bloomer produces stunning mounds of silver foiled foliage topped with sprays of blue.
Common Names: Siberian Bugloss, False Forget-Me-Not, Heartleaf Brunnera. A slow-spreading, clump-forming perennial. Brunnera is not a large plant. It forms a low mound with the height coming from the flower stalks. Expect it to reach a mature size of 12 to 20 inches (h) x 12 to 24 inches (w). Many of the cultivars will spread less quickly than the species. Plant in partial to full shade. Brunnera can grow in full sun, but it will need more moisture. The variegated leaves can easily burn in direct sunlight and plants may go dormant in extreme heat. You will start to get sprays of blue flowers in mid- to late spring. Brunnera can stay in bloom for about 4 weeks. The delicate, 5-petaled, blue flowers come in sprays held above the foliage.
They range from pastel to electric blue, often with a yellow center. The first leaves of the season tend to be oblong, but later leaves are heart-shaped, slightly puckered, and many have a tendency to curl or furl. They can be a solid deep green or variegated or spotted with silvery-white tones. Soil: Brunnera is not particular about soil pH, but it does like rich, moist soil. Lots of organic matter and organic mulch will help it become established quickly and keep it growing well. The species, with solid green leaves, is readily available. It has the lovely sprays of blue flower and is an extremely tough plant.
Some of the newer cultivars include:
Brunnera "Diane's Gold" - Golden-yellow leaves and blue flowers.
Brunnera "Hadspen Cream" - Large leaves with irregular white outer margins.
Brunnera "Jack Frost" - Silvery leaves with green veins.
Brunnera "Langtrees" (aka "Silver Spot") - Leaves are dotted with silver. A very hardy plant.
Brunnera "Looking Glass" - Silver leaves look almost metallic
The older leaves may start to get tattered and can be cut back during the growing season, to encourage new leaves to fill in. Don't cut the whole plant back to the ground in the fall. The leaves will help protect the crown during winter and you can easily prune the plant in the spring when the new leaves begin to emerge.
Divide in early spring. Can be short-lived and dividing your plants about every 3-5 years will keep them around longer.
CAMAS
This one grows with the epimediums under the Harry Lauders walking stick (gnarly filbert tree). There is another one growing by the simplicity rose in the 5 foot strip of my garden next to the nefarious neighbours cement sidewalk. More about edible camas plants
CHOCOLATE LILLIES: (Fritillaria affinis)
Chocolate lily (Fritillaria affinis) is a tall herbaceous perennial growing from white bulblets consisting of a few fleshy scales and many rice-grain-like offsets; its bulbs are usually smaller than Fritillaria camchatcensis. The stems are 20-50 cm tall, sturdy and unbranched, bearing 1-3 whorls of 5-11 lanceshaped leaves. Chocolate lily has bowl-shaped, distinctly nodding flowers with six tepals which are brown-mottled with green or yellow. The capsules are broadly winged. Chocolate lily is found in open dry woods and meadows from southern coastal British Columbia eastward to the Okanagan, in eastern Washington and south to California. Chocolate lily grows on well-drained soils on open slopes, requires well-drained soil.
EPIMEDIUM Sulphurem
Epimedium 'Sulphureum' spreads much faster (4-6" per year) and is slightly taller than its sister Epimedium 'Neosulphureum'. In the shade garden, it will quickly form a dense mass of foliage even in the worst conditions...a superb choice for a small, impenetrable woodland groundcover. In early spring, the bright red flower stalks emerge topped with light yellow flowers (mid-March in NC). Within a few more days, the green foliage with dramatic red mottling also emerges, creating a nice foil for the scapes of pale yellow flowers. I have two of these plants. They grow next to the stepping stones and just before they curve to enter water garden area. I clip the old foliage back in the Spring. They like the shade under the Harry Lauder's walking stick. One of the blue hepaticas grow just behind the epimediums.
HOSTA
I have a little hosta with blue leaves and flowers growing next to the epimediums, along the stepping stones, with the primulas on the other side of it.
FERNS:
Native ferns and Satin Flower Nursery a local nursery for native plants.
DWARF MAIDENHAIR Fern (adiantum aleuticum subpumilum)
(VIRAGS $5) a lovely fern. A very slowly spreading groundcover. Shiny, glossy black stalks hold aloft contrasting, limey-green pinnae. Rarely available, it takes good drainage and light shade and rich soils. Deciduous Size: 6" - 9" Height and Spread: Small - Under 1' in height or spread in 5 years. Garden Use: Ground cover, Rock garden ferns. Origin: Pacific Northwest. Soil: Sand Clay Chalk Loam Moisture: Moist but well-drained pH: Acid, Alkaline, Neutral. It grows by the drystream just out from the deck edge. Jeff Wright said to give it some lime. (2021). I thought I lost it, but found it under a very vigorous Welsh poppy.
ROCK fern - Must be the Korean Rock fern. Cannot find the native variety. Planted by the support post of the deck next to the nice big rhodo. I see this fern growing on rocks in the Spring and thereafter it dies back and goes dormant in Summer and appears again in the Spring.
FOXGLOVES
I am letting the foxgloves self seed all around the water garden rooms.
HEPATICA noblisis (Liverworte)
Hepatica is a genus of herbaceous perennials in the buttercup family, native to central and northern Europe, Asia and eastern North America. Some botanists include Hepatica within a wider interpretation of Anemone. Grow
next to the rock fern in the moss there is a pink hepatica. It is nicely spreading in this spot just at the edge of the deck, with the drystream behind it under the deck. In fact I have two more blue ones in different places around the garden. The blue one in this garden room grows under the Harry Lauder Walking stick. They seem to just pop up in unexpected spots, usually in shade under a bigger plant. They are much appreciated where ever they appear.
POLYANTHUS are a type of primula (Primula x polyantha) which produces incredibly bright cheerful flowers from July through to October. They thrive and are almost indestructible if planted in fertile, humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. Make sure they sit in a partially shaded spot protected from the hot summer sun and the soil does not dry out. There are several Polyanthus growing around the shade garden. I am able to divide them and move them around the garden. There are some growing around the viewing platform and across the cement pavers with the Arabis. I have a primula veris growing along in the front of the rhodos in the moss and next to the stepping stones. I have at least two asiatic primroses growing under the Harry Lauder walking stick shrub. Not sure of what kind they are as I just bought them as Asiatic primroses. They like to be kept well watered, and are tall, pink flowers and crinkled leaves. Primroses and polyanthus grow very well in the moss over clay type kind of soil, that has been enriched in the years I have divided them.
The vibrant and colorful flowers are either borne on individual short stems among the leaves (acaulis type) or carried in long-stalked umbels (polyanthus type). There are thousands of cultivars available. They require little attention, aside from division in early spring or fall. I have one that was called 'victoria', that has flowers of blue with stripes, a double pink variety, a magenta with yellow eye, a deep purple with red eye, Amethest very deep cerice/magenta color .. very nice as well as some I may have missed. They grow in the moss, following the stepping stones up to the epimediums, and all around the water garden area. As I type this on June 5, 2024, they are growing like crazy and will need dividing this Fall. I purchased a 'vivali' last year, and have it potted but I am not sure it survived the cold spell in winter or the destruction of the plants in the deck tub last year. It is on my wish list if it does not survive.
FALSE BAMBOO
I cannot find the name of this plant. It looks like a bamboo. I have it planted in a 5 gallon pot. It grows next to the Lily of the valley shrub beside the field stone path that is the entry to the water garden area, as well as the entry to the strawberry patch/cutting garden room. It has never bloomed or produced any berries. Maybe it is a bamboo. :)
PIERIS japonica
- Lily of the Valley shrub grows across the stepping stones from the entry to the cutting garden, where the stepping stones make a turn into the water garden. Japanese pieris has an upright, rounded, and dense habit and slowly matures to a height of 8 to 10 feet and a width of 6 to 8 feet. It is noted for its emerging coppery red leaves, fragrant white urn-shaped flowers that bloom in the spring, and multi-season interest. The shrub does tolerate pruning, but keep in mind that next season's blossoms will appear on old growth.
PINUS Mugo
– about 2 feet tall. It needs to be pruned to shape it. It is about the centre of the moss garden, next to the Harry Lauders Walking stick, and the Mountain laurel.
CORYLUS avellana ‘Contorta’
- Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ is commonly known as Contorted Hazel, Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick, Contorted Filbert or Corkscrew Hazel. It is a slow growing, large deciduous shrub or a small tree. Its mid green leaves are broadly ovate, rounded, up to 12cm long, softly hairy on their upper and lower surfaces, have a double serrate margin and are often contorted. These leaves turn yellow in the autumn before leaf drop. The distinctive feature of this plant is its twisted and contorted branches. The monoecious flowers are produced before the leaves emerge and are wind pollinated catkins. The pale yellow male catkins are up to 12cm long. The female catkins are largely concealed in the buds with only the bright red long styles visible. The fruit is a nut, produced in clusters of up to 5, each nut held in a short leafy involucre. This interesting shrub grows above the epimediums that are next to the stepping stones path before they turn into the water garden area. I pruned it back quite a lot, this year (2024) as it is growing over the other shrubs. In fact all of the shrubs are getting some attention to pruning, so they all fit into this garden room.
JAPANESE MAPLE
- my laceleaf, red Japanese Maple is only about 2 feet high and 3 feet wide. I have had it for years and it is not getting any taller or wider. It is easy care and grows on a slight mossy mound. I try to keep it weeded and never need to prune it. It grows next to the field stone path, between the mountain laurel and the contorted hazel nut shrub.
JAPANESE ARALIA
Fatsia japonica, also fatsi, paperplant, false castor oil plant, or Japanese aralia, is a species of flowering plant in the family Araliaceae, native to southern Japan and southern Korea.
It is an evergreen shrub growing to 1–5 m (3 ft 3 in – 16 ft 5 in) tall, with stout, sparsely branched stems. The leaves are spirally-arranged, large, 20–40 cm (7.9–15.7 in) in width and on a petiole up to 50 cm (20 in) long, leathery, palmately lobed, with 7–9 broad lobes, divided to half or two-thirds of the way to the base of the leaf; the lobes are edged with coarse, blunt teeth. The flowers are small, white, borne in dense terminal compound umbels in late autumn or early winter, followed by small black fruit in spring.
The name fatsi is an approximation of the Japanese word for 'eight' (hachi in modern romanization), referring to the eight leaf lobes. In Japan it is known as yatsude, meaning "eight fingers". The name "Japanese aralia" is due to the genus being classified in the related genus Aralia in the past. It has been interbred with Hedera helix (common ivy) to produce the intergeneric hybrid × Fatshedera lizei.
Mine has never bloomed.
Grows under the deck by the drystream and overhangs the old stump and the Japanese lantern in 2024.
MOUNTAIN LAUREL (Kalmia latifolia)
is a flowering broadleaf evergreen shrub with a gnarly, multi-stemmed growth habit. It has beautiful spring blooms, and its elliptical, glossy deep-green leaves (resembling those of rhododendrons) and gnarled stems make it attractive in all seasons. This shade-loving shrub produces clusters of rose, pink, or white flowers with purple markings in late May to early June. If the flowers are not deadheaded, nondescript brown fruits will appear. Many different cultivars are available that offer various sizes and bloom colors. My mountain laurel is about 4 feet high and 3 feet wide. It grows in its mossy mound next to the Japanese Maple and across the dry stream from the little clipped globe cedar. The globe cedar is across the cement pavers, that lead around the pond, from the Lebanon cedar (also clipped to its shape) mentioned in the pond surrounds. I consider the dry stream and the field stone path as the edge of this moss/Japanese garden room. The astilbes grow just the other side of the dry stream and next to the viewing platform. The Japanese lantern and the old stump are just behind the dry stream where it takes a curve along the edge of the deck. This little area is the most 'Japanese' area of the moss/Japanese garden room.
The DRY STREAM runs off the pathway of field stones at the juncture of this pathway and the flat cement pavers that go around the pond. The dry stream will need to be under layed with left over epdm or black plastic and then have pea gravel and small rocks added. Then I should be able to control the moss or weeds from growing in the dry stream. Perhaps with boiling water. But I dream.
The JAPANESE LANTERN currently sits by the old stump under the over hanging Aralia leaves. It needs to grow moss again. It may be moved again someday as I am not entirely satisfied with where it is right now.
Annual Gardening pages
January - we occasionally get snow.
February - more rain, and some
bulbs up
March - first spring bulbs
blooming
April - rock plants blooming,
grass needs mowing, fruit trees blooming
May - the garden is in full
swing
June - lovely warm days of
medium temperatures and roses in bloom
July - we need to water a lot
in the summer as we do not often get rain.
August - the Fall perennials
starting to bloom and fruit is ripening
September - harvest time in the
vegetable garden and time to plant the winter garden
October - glorious fall colors
and sunsets, fruit ripening and rains begin again
November - sometimes a lovely
month with the Fall colors and warm rains
December - more rain, the garden
is mostly greens and browns, very peaceful.
Annual Journal Notes - This is the first page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2012 when I began to keep my garden notes on my computer. See the bottom of this first page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2013 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2013 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2014 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2014 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2015 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2015 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2016 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2016 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2017 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2017 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2018 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2018 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2019 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2019 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2020 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2020 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2021 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2021 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2022 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2022 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2023 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2023 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2024 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2024 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2025 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2025 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2026 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2026 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Outline of the garden changes - This is the first page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden.
A description of the garden rooms - This is the second page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden, and showing the creation of the garden rooms as well as some of the renovations over the years.
Annual Garden changes photo albums The third page of the series will be annual photo albums of the changes in the garden for the year, beginning in 2009.
