The plant lists page. This link shows the purchases of plants and supplies for all around the garden.
The Front Entry Garden Room
The photo album for The Front Entry Garden Room
The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The photo album The Magnolia Tree Garden Room where the Trilliums grow.
The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The photo album for The Inner Garden Room, including The Sun Dial Circle, Thyme Circle and Center Garden
The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The photo album for the The Smoke Tree Garden Room that is part of the Inner Garden Room
The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Front Garden Rock and Alpines
The Boulevard Garden
The photo album for The Boulevard Garden
The Strip between the Driveways
The photo album for The Strip between the Driveways
The Woodland Garden Room
The photo album for The Woodland Garden
The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The photo album for The Fig Tree Bed, including the bed next to the old sidewalk, in the back garden
The Japanese and Moss Garden Room
The Japanese and Moss Garden photo album
The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The photo album of the The pond and surrounds Garden Room
The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The photo album for The plants in the pond Room (note: This is a list page for the plants in the pond)
The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The photo album for The Back Garden Rock and Alpines
The Cutting Garden including vegetables, herbs
The Cutting Garden Room photo album
The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The photo album for The deck and patio plants, including some of the plants also listed in the Moss and Water Garden Room
The Fish Pond Note: this is a new water page, not a list page
Pond Plants Note: this is the list page for the Plants in the Pond and the deck tub.
The photo album for the Pond Plants
The Light garden and Orchids
The photo album for The Light garden and Orchids
B. C. INVASIVE PLANTS list.
Perennial Pruning
A good look at how to prune a few perennials
Not only do perennials make a statement, they’re also relatively low-maintenance and give you a bang for your buck with their yearly return.
However, some perennials don’t thrive when pruned in the cold weather and others don’t thrive if they’re pruned too early in the season. So, which perennials are best to cut back in the fall and which ones are good to keep until the spring? Read on to find out.
Perennials to cut back in the fall
YARROW (Achillea)
This long-blooming perennial is often used in butterfly and rock gardens as an edging plant. They come in a variety of colours and are known for their vibrant, feathery foliage.
Yarrow doesn’t thrive in cold or wet soil and often stops actively growing in the fall. This is a great time to cut back its lowest leaves to give the plant enough time for its new growth to emerge in the spring.
Tall Garden PHLOX
Tall garden phlox is another perennial that adds a pop of colour to any garden. They often grow in tall clumps and are known for their cluster of blooms at the top of their stalks.
Unfortunately, phlox is prone to powdery mildew so cutting the stems and foliage back in the fall can prevent the plant from getting infected. This can also help the plant increase airflow and prevent disease.
PEONY
Peony is a magnificent addition to any garden space. They are captivating, have large, full blooms and come in over 30 different species. With this plant also comes careful handling and care in order for them to thrive in your garden.
Similar to phlox, peonies are prone to mildew which is why cutting them back in the fall is important. This will also give your peonies enough time to set buds for the spring season.
Tall BEARDED IRIS
Tall Bearded iris is an easy and stunning plant to grow. Their sword-like leaves offer a unique display to your outdoor space, and come in a variety of solid and bi-colours.
As the foliage of this plant begins to flop early in the growing season, it may become prone to pests and fungal diseases. As soon as the plant is done blooming in the fall, cut the flower stalk and remove any damaged or diseased leaves.
DAYLILY
If you’re looking to create a pollinator habitat in your garden, daylilies are an attractive plant to butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Removing spent flower stalks of daylilies in the fall can encourage new flowers in the spring and save you garden cleanup time during the spring season. Removing diseased parts of the plant can also protect the plant from getting infected.
GAILLARDIA
Gaillardia is a perennial that is often compared to daisies due to their shape and rich coloured-flowers. They’re relatively easy to grow, and their red and yellow shades are guaranteed to make a showy display during the warmer months.
Pruning these perennials in the fall can result in a fuller, healthier plant and steady blooming.
Perennials to prune in spring
LAVENDER
Lavender is a fragrant garden favourite for many reasons including its attractive display, aroma and versatile uses.
A lot of areas struggle with over-wintering due to moisture and the cold, however, they can benefit from pruning winter dieback after new growth has appeared in the spring as new growth can be sensitive to the cold.
GAYFEATHER (Liatris spicata)
Gay feather, also known as blazing star, is known for their signature grass-like leaves and reddish-purple colour varieties. Rather than being sensitive to cold weather, they are more sensitive to cold, wet soil.
During the winter, their flower heads can be left in place for winter-feeding birds. Any garden debris in the spring is important to clean before new growth begins.
MUMS (Chrysanthemum)
Mums are great, vibrant plants for potted plants and garden use. They come in several colour varieties perfect for creating an enchanting arrangement when placed together in any garden.
Mums are a perennial that can benefit from keeping their foliage over the winter in order to protect their root crowns.
LAMBS EARS
Lamb’s ears are known for their silvery foliage and are extremely drought-tolerant. They love the sun and work well in rock gardens or dry spots in garden beds.
With these perennials, it is best to leave them as-is for the winter as their foliage can protect the crowns of their plants. In the spring, garden cleanup will be relatively simple while you’ll only have to rake loose foliage.
SAGE (Salvia yangii)
Sage is another perennial that is low-maintenance and drought-tolerant. Similar to lavender, sage doesn’t benefit from cutting back in the fall as its growth is sensitive to cold weather.
In the spring once new growth of this plant appears, it is best to cut back to about 6 to 8 inches to allow their growth buds to resprout.
CORAL BELLS (Heuchera)
If there’s one perennial that is the epitome of fall, it’s coral bells, also known as heuchera. They have show-stopping foliage and new varieties of this plant are introduced every year.
These perennials are best to keep until spring as they are adept at protecting themselves during the fall and winter. Leaving the foliage of coral bells intact during the fall can help mulch the plants through the winter season, making it best to prune in the spring season.
The Deck and surrounds Garden Room
The photo album for the garden paths and art helps define each of the garden rooms. Also shows some of the renovations to the previously existing garden rooms. There is garden 'art' such as the David or the West Coast planter, in most of the garden rooms to add to the viewing pleasure. There is the plaques on the garage wall, the sea horse, and the Japanese lantern in the Deck and Surrounds Garden Room. This album was recreated in 2021 and mentions some pending renovations that have been done, with more to do, as ever, in the changing garden.
The Deck and Surroundings Garden
Some exerpts from the changes 2 page uploaded sometime in 2014:
There are stepping stones starting from the primulas, through the hellebore, white azeleya and the rhodo going under the deck (duck your head -- this garden is built for gnomes) and step over the dry stream where there are now board stepping stones through the new moss and ferns.
The neighbours on the East side of the cedars that screen the deck have beat the hell out of the cedars chasing their hockey pucks under the deck years ago when they were kids. I have been trying to add more screening. A black bamboo has taken hold and is working well. The leaves are slowly growing back on the damaged cedars. The ferns grow up to screen my sitting spot. There will be more bamboo. The pond, water tubs and water fall have had numerous changes done over the years.
This is a new page describing the area above and below the deck and the surrounding edge areas, as well as the patio area in front of the old garage. It includes the rhodos, hellebores, clematis, etc. plants along the edges. Also includes the sea horse, Japanese lantern, and the dry stream features. Due to damage by the nefarious neighbours there will be a lot of time spent repairing the plants under the deck. It also includes the plaques and plants in the patio area which has changed since the installation of the heat pump in November, 2022. The plants on the top of the deck change annually. The tub with the gold fish and a few plants remains much same as well as the honeysuckle vine in the tall white pot in the corner of the deck.
This blog post shows some of the features of the Deck and Surrounds area as of July 7, 2013.
I have added a little viewing area with plastic steps down to the area by the wall of house where I hope to create a private sitting area, once I get the repairs done to the privacy hedge along the edge of the property with the nefarious neighbour. There may even be a new little water feature with the black tub, fish, and a pump with a feature to circulate the water. But I dream.
See the photo album for the Deck, above and below and surrounding plants, as well as patio plants and all the features.
The Plants on the Deck and Surroundings Garden Room
UNDER THE DECK:
EUONYMUS FORTUNEI
Euonymus Fortunei 'Emerald 'n' Gold'
'Emerald 'n' Gold' euonymus is a broadleaf evergreen shrub grown for its variegated leaves, which have green centers with golden margins. This is a low-growing shrub (to about two feet) that sprawls out as much as four feet. It can be a versatile ground cover for both sunny and shady areas. If given support, it will climb a low wall. Foliage turns pinkish-red in the fall, and it may drop off in the colder areas of its hardiness range. Be aware that Euonymus scale can be a significant insect problem.
Grows under the deck where it gets pruned to fit its space. It is along the dry stream in the ferns.
JAPANESE ARALIA
Fatsia japonica, also fatsi, paperplant, false castor oil plant, or Japanese aralia, is a species of flowering plant in the family Araliaceae, native to southern Japan and southern Korea.
It is an evergreen shrub growing to 1–5 m (3 ft 3 in – 16 ft 5 in) tall, with stout, sparsely branched stems. The leaves are spirally-arranged, large, 20–40 cm (7.9–15.7 in) in width and on a petiole up to 50 cm (20 in) long, leathery, palmately lobed, with 7–9 broad lobes, divided to half or two-thirds of the way to the base of the leaf; the lobes are edged with coarse, blunt teeth. The flowers are small, white, borne in dense terminal compound umbels in late autumn or early winter, followed by small black fruit in spring.
The name fatsi is an approximation of the Japanese word for 'eight' (hachi in modern romanization), referring to the eight leaf lobes. In Japan it is known as yatsude, meaning "eight fingers". The name "Japanese aralia" is due to the genus being classified in the related genus Aralia in the past. It has been interbred with Hedera helix (common ivy) to produce the intergeneric hybrid × Fatshedera lizei.
Mine has never bloomed.
Grows under the deck by the drystream and overhangs the old stump and the Japanese lantern in 2024.
FERNS:
a very interesting site about native plants, animals, butterflies, etc.
Native ferns: Native Ferns.
DWARF MAIDENHAIR FERN
- adiantum aleuticum subpumilum a lovely fern. A Truly DWARF MAIDENHAIR Fern, and a very slowly spreading groundcover. Shiny, glossy black stalks hold aloft contrasting, limey-green pinnae. Rarely available, it takes good drainage and light shade and rich soils. Deciduous Size: 6" - 9" Height and Spread: Small - Under 1' in height or spread in 5 years. Purchased from VIRAGS $5.
Garden Use: Ground cover, Rock garden ferns
Origin: Pacific Northwest. Soil: Sand Clay Chalk Loam Moisture: Moist but well-drained pH: Acid, Alkaline, Neutral
Adiantum Aleuticum
needs to be kept moist. Grows next to the wall by the Seahorse. Doing well in June 2019.
Moved to just out from the deck, so that it gets more water. Wright said to give it some lime. (2021) I thought I lost it, but found it under a very vigorous Welsh poppy. I think it goes dormant for the winter
WESTERN MAIDENHAIR FERN:
This one is tall - Western maidenhair fern (Adiantum aleuticum)
A highly textured perennial with an airy, delicate-looking structure and fine-textured deciduous foliage, Western maidenhair fern grows mainly at low to middle elevations in the shady understory of moist forests and ravines, along stream banks, in rock fissures near flowing water, and even on talus slopes. It can be found in southern Alaska and the Aleutian Islands, British Columbia, Washington, and Oregon, as well as parts of California, the Rocky Mountains, and a few disjunct populations northeastern states and Canada.
- LICORICE FERN
See it at Licorice Fern
VIRAGS 2016 $3.00 under the deck. Should try to grow it on the mossy logs.
Polypodium glycyrrhiza, commonly known as licorice fern, many-footed fern, and sweet root, is a summer deciduous fern native to western North America, primarily in a narrow strip in southern Alaska. it grows primarily in wet forests, where it is especially common as an epiphyte on the trunks of Bigleaf Maples. It also grows on logs, rock faces, and wet, mossy ground. When many Northwest ferns have said adiós to most of their above ground growth and have nearly left the stage, enter licorice fern.
If you have it in your yard you might forget it’s there until the soft rains of autumn release it from its dormancy. Then, when you least expect it, bright green, feather-like fronds (to about 12 inches) gradually appear to help brighten the landscape all winter long. Although licorice fern may stay evergreen where it is well established, out of harsh sunlight, and receives some moisture in the form of mist or from a watering can. It is typically a summer deciduous plant. It is a primary producer for other inhabitants within the ecosystem, including insects, birds, and other animals. (VIRAGS 2016 $3.00). Grows under the deck.
SWORD FERN
POLYSTICHUM MUNITUM the western swordfern, is an evergreen fern native to western North America, where it is one of the most abundant ferns. Medium growing vase-like evergreen perennial. Height 2 to 4 feet. Robust, easily grown, clump forming fern, drought tolerant. Partial to full shade, takes some sun. Likes acid soil. The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. Note: When acquiring this plant, make sure that you are getting Polystichum munitum. There are several varieties of ferns that are commonly called Sword Ferns and some can be very invasive in some climates. VIRAGS 2016 $3.00. Grows under the deck. Fiddleheads. A huge one grows by the old compost bin. Sword Fern Plant Care: How To Grow Sword Ferns.
DEER FERN
- Blechnum spicant. Other common names include: Hard Fern or Rough Spleenwort. Deer fern has two types of fronds: narrow, evergreen, once-pinnate (or deeply lobed), sterile leaves spread outward, growing 10-80 cm long; even narrower, taller (1-3 feet), fertile fronds grow erect, from the center, soon withering after spore dispersal. The once-pinnate leaflets on the fertile fronds are much narrower and roll almost tube-like around the continuous sori. Leaf stalks are a dark, purplish-brown, and grow from a short, thick rhizome. Grows under the deck
How to grow Deer Ferns
- HARTS TONGUE FERN
- Asplenium scolopendrium
Hart's-tongue fern does not look like any other fern you grow. The new fronds unroll into long narrow tongue-like blades. These wide, strap-like, bright green fronds are distinctive and provide striking contrast with fine-textured ferns and other woodland perennials. Evergreen Height: 1 ft.9 in. (0.53 meters) Width/Spread: 1 ft. 9 in(0.53m). Sun/Light Exposure: open to deep shade, regular watering. One grows beside the steps, near the retaining wall. Others have spread around under the deck.
How to grow Harts Tongue Fern.
ROCK FERN
- Must be the Korean Rock fern. Cannot find the native variety. Planted by the support post of the deck next to the nice big rhodo. I see this fern growing on rocks in the Spring and thereafter it dies back and goes dormant in Summer and appears again in the Spring.
POLYGONATUM
Polygonatum, also known as King Solomon's-seal or Solomon's seal, is a genus of flowering plants. In the APG III classification system, it is placed in the family Asparagaceae, subfamily Nolinoideae.
Solomon's-seals prefer rich, moist, well-drained soils in partial to full shade (where they will receive morning or dappled sunlight rather than afternoon sun) but they are quite adaptable to many situations, including those difficult dry shade spots near tree roots. More information on the Solomon's Seal plant.
SYMPHORICARPUS ALBA (Snowberry)
Medium growing upright deciduous shrub
Height 3 to 6 feet – Spread 3 to 6 feet
Likes sun/part shade
Pinkish white flowers in summer, showy white berries persist into winter.
ECOLOGY: Grows anywhere – in dry or moist sites. Tolerates drought, poor soils, shade, wind.
grows under the deck and among the cedar hedge plants. It is a volunteer plant around the garden.
The Mosses and Lichens growing under the deck and all around the water garden area are all volunteer plants.
The cedar privacy hedge.
FEATURES under the deck:
A seating area with a small table will eventually be set up along the wall of the house.
The Japanese lantern sits just at the edge of the deck. It needs to grow moss all over it again.
The dry stream starts by the large mossy stone next to the small cedar, the astilbes, and the mountain laurel, and runs under the deck, where it makes a curve along the edge of the deck overhang, and onwards to where it makes another curve by the deck post and disappears into the ferns.
There are stepping stones running from the primulas, past the rhodendrons, and hosta to meet the dry stream. We need to wade through the ferns to get to the seating area.
There is a viewing platform by the clematis that climbs up to the deck railings. From the viewing platform there is another set of plastic stepping stones that lead to the seating area.
All of the area under the deck will need renovation and some new plants for privacy screening.
The dry stream will need to be under layed with left over epdm or black plastic and then have pea gravel and small rocks added. Then I should be able to control the moss or weeds from growing in the dry stream.
ON TOP OF THE DECK:
the more permanent plants on top of the deck:
HONEYSUCKLE VINE (Lonicera sempervirens )
Honeysuckles are arching shrubs or twining vines in the genus Lonicera of the family Caprifoliaceae, native to northern latitudes in North America and Eurasia. Approximately 180 species of honeysuckle have been identified in both continents.
If the long-lasting, sweetly-scented flowers aren’t reason enough to grow honeysuckles, you’ll find that these versatile vines have many practical uses in the garden as well, from providing dappled shade to serving as a lush privacy screen.
Choose a site with moist, well-drained soil where your honeysuckle plant will receive full sun. Although honeysuckles don't mind some shade, they will flower more profusely in a sunny location.
Looking for a honeysuckle that will suit your modern garden ideas? Opt for an evergreen climbing plant like Lonicera sempervirens with its clusters of dangling, tubular, salmon-pink flowers from early summer onwards. They also happen to have a pleasantly sweet scent.
My honeysuckle vine grows in the tall white pot at the corner of the deck next to the wall and the cedar hedge. Hopefully, this will provide more privacy screening, although it is not evergreen. I am training it to grow on its trellis.
More information about the Honeysuckle vine.
KENLIWORTH IVY (cymbalaria muralis)
This easy vining plant grows out of the tall white pot that is mentioned above. It grows all over the garden and is easy care.
More information about the Kenliworth Ivy
GLOBE FLOWER (Trollius Chinensis)
My globe flower grows in a smaller white pot that sits beside the tub water feature. It has
2 - 2.5 inch bowl-shaped golden yellow to orange flowers. Blooms in Spring. 3 feet (90 cm)tall. Placement: Borders, beside wet areas. Care: Plant in moist soil in area with morning sun and afternoon shade. Intolerant to heat. There is another of these Globe flowers in a black gallon pot sitting on the shelf of the pond but does not do well in the water. I shall move it out of the pond to just beside the pond and try to keep it moist. The white pot also contains a hyacinth and several pale blue crocuses that were in bloom on February 9 this year. The globe flower has leaves and looks very healthy on March 25, 2024, as I type this. There is no sign of the hyacinth yet. I wonder if it was destroyed in the mess that was made of the tub pots last year.
More information on the globe flower.
MINIATURE YELLOW WATER LILY (nymphaea helvola)
My miniature water lily grows in the water tub, in a gallon pot. It has about 10 inches of water over it. It usually has a few blossoms a year, over the summer season. I usually have a gold fish or two in the tub so I think they probably fertilize it. The leaves, also are lovely with purple markings on them.
Last year I had some creature causing havoc in the tub. The two gold fish were gone and the lily and water irises suffered dumps into the water and damage to leaves. I removed the taller plants and put a screen covering over the lily. And that covering was ripped off the tub with more destruction to the water lily. I can't imagine what kind of critter would be able to rip off that wire covering. . . racoons, perhaps. Never had this happen before in all the years I have had the tub water feature.
More information about the miniature water lily.
WATER IRISES
There are 2 Japanese Iris – Kaempferi – unnamed white and Kaempferi – beni-botan - royal purple. (now called Iris ensata). They stand on wire stands that hook over the edges of the water tub. They have had the top of the pots above the water by a few inches. Since the destruction in the water tub of last year I will need to clean out the tub, repot the irises and get them back into the tub on their stands, as well as get the water lily repotted and replenish the fish when it warms up a bit. These water irises have come from the ones that were in the pond, and it is easy to pot up new ones.
More information on the Japanese water irises.
There is a Nelly Moser CLEMATIS that climbs up to the deck and often surrounds the water tub with blossoms. More on this plant on the edges of the deck plants below.
VERBENA BONARIENSIS
Clusters of small purple flowers floating on long, airy stems tempting passing butterflies to stop for a sip is just one reason to consider adding Verbena bonariensis, also called tall verbena or purpletop verbena, to your garden. This plant is just one of about 250 species in the genus Verbena, of which only about half a dozen are in cultivation. V. bonariensis is native to Brazil and Argentina (the specific name is after Buenos Aires). This plant is perennial in zones 7 to 11 and is grown as an annual in cooler climates. I let this plant self seed everywhere around my garden. The humming birds, butterflies and bees love it.
The OTHER PLANT POTS on the deck have herbs, annual vegetables, annual flowers (violas, petunias, heliotrope etc.) and a few more perennials that change from time to time. I often have newly purchased plants on the deck until I get their planting spaces prepared.
The saxifragia and tufa rocks have all been removed to the new rock garden in the front garden. All the special rocks from on the railing have also been moved to this rock garden.
There are the plastic chairs and table. The hummingbird feeder sits on the table, with the rain gauge. The recycle bins also take up another corner of the deck.
FEATURES on top of the deck:
The water tub and bird bath are the features of the deck.
THE PATIO AREA OF THE DECK:
The patio area of the deck has changed since we installed the heat pump in 2022.
The orange trees that I grew from pits have all been replaced in the brown pots by milkweed. These brown pots have moved to the back of the old garage, in the woodland, with their future to be determined.
There is now only 2 pots of plants on the patio, being: a brown pot with a miniature pink rose, and a big white pot with perenials that often change. There are montebretias and some sedums in it now.
The heat pump, one chair, the garden hose, the watering can, the garbage bin and the compostable materials bin make this into a 'working area' more than a seating area.
The motor home takes up some of the area, and some of the driveway, blocking the view of the geraniums and the bottom of the cedar hedge on the west side.
I often have bags of soil, etc. here and newly purchased plants sitting in this area waiting for their place in the garden to be prepared.
FEATURES in the patio area are the cement plaques that hang on the garage wall.
THE EDGES AROUND THE DECK:
Starting with the plants between the steps and the wall of the house:
SCILLA
For outdoor landscape planting, find a spot where the soil drains well, and your Scilla plants will receive good light. Dig holes and plant the bulbs 3–4" deep and 4" apart at the base with the small points facing up. Bloom in spring. Remove the dry foliage when the leaves turn yellow and die back as the plants slip into dormancy around early to mid-summer.
Information on the scilla. I don't think this is the plant that I am calling bluebells and trying to get rid of all around the garden.
MUSCARI:
Information about the grape hyacinths See the 'plumosa' variety. I definitely have some of these as well as the more common 'armeniacum'. They grow by the little retaining wall by the steps up to the deck. Easy to grow and are a welcome sight in the eary spring.
CYCLAMEN
The cyclamens are volunteering all over the garden. They are nice and not difficult to keep in check.
COTONEASTER:
The shrub grows next to the wall of the house and hangs over the little retaining wall. I have had it clipped in the shape of a goose for a few years, but have now pruned it back to a level shape. I don't have the fancy one with silver leaves.
More information on the Cotoneaster.
HARTS TONGUE fern - Asplenium scolopendrium:
Hart's-tongue fern does not look like any other fern you grow. The new fronds unroll into long narrow tongue-like blades. These wide, strap-like, bright green fronds are distinctive and provide striking contrast with fine-textured ferns and other woodland perennials. Evergreen Height: 1 ft.9 in. (0.53 meters) Width/Spread: 1 ft. 9 in(0.53m). Sun/Light Exposure: open to deep shade, regular watering. This one grows next to the steps up to the deck. I cut out the old fronds in the Spring and it looks good. It is easy to grow and care for. I think this is my favourite fern. It grows just in front of the new Rhodendron.
More information on the Hart's tongue fern.
RHODODENDRON Oreotrephes:
I purchased this new rhodo in October 2018 from Cannor nursery for $11.69. The tag on this rodo said it was pink to 10 ft. It has blue blossoms and bluish leaves in my garden. Perhaps it needs more acid soil? It has grown very fast and is a beautiful, healthy rhodo. It grows in front of the old Camillia that I had cut back when it grew to the height of the kitchen window and was becoming a hazard. (more below on the camillia). These two plants fill in the privacy screen next to the patio area. The rhodo is about 10 feet high now (March 28, 2024), and still growing and blooming.
More on the Rhodendron .
CAMILLIA - variegated leaves with red blossoms :
Some of the first plants that I planted in my garden were the old rhodos, the azaleas and the camillias. I planted this one by the kitchen window and had cut it back when it got too tall. It is now regrowing. The leaves are variagated - green and light yellow. The blossoms would turn brown as soon as any moisture touched them. It is in bloom now (March 28, 2024) with dark red blossoms. I try to keep it pruned to a rounded shape. It looks good growing just back of the above mentioned Rhodo.
More about the variegated camillias . NOTE: This is not the 'debutante' or 'high hat' camillia mentioned in my old notes.
More ferns and moss beyond this camillia on under the deck. Under the steps also has many more ferns.
The plants on the other side of the steps:
VERONICA: repenes
This is an older plant in the garden. It grows at the edge of the little retaining wall on the patio, next to the steps up to the deck. The rhodo behind it seems to put it into the shade but the little veronica just keeps on growing and blooming. It has blue-ish leaves and light blue flowers. It hangs over the little wall. I cannot find this what variety this might be.
More information on the creeping veronica.
PHLOX - stolonifera
This is another tough plant that is doing well in semi shade by the rhodos. It grows next to the stepping stones and hangs over the retaining wall by the step up to the old sidewalk. It is covered with pink blossoms in the summer.
More information on the creeping phlox.
CHAMELEON PLANT - Houttuynia cordata:
Years ago when I first saw this plant it looked very nice. I planted it under the rhodos. In a few short years it was taking over this area. Currently I am digging out every piece of it I can find when I am out cleaning up around this area of the garden. The foliage has the fragrance of oranges when it is broken. It is too bad Plant nurseries do not warn us about these garden thugs.
Traditionally the plant is used for its various beneficial properties against inflammation, pneumonia, severe acute respiratory syndrome, muscular sprain, stomach ulcer etc. Oxidative stress and inflammation were found to be linked with most of the diseases in recent times. Also used in Chinese cooking.
More about the chameleon Plant.
ARISAEMA Triphyllum:
This plant has high severity poison characteristics.
Commonly called Jack-in-the-pulpit, this native plant is a spring woodland wildflower, usually growing 1- 2' tall. The spadix or 'Jack' has a columnar form with a sheath that is called a spathe or 'pulpit'.
Flowering plants initially produce only male flowers, but become hermaphroditic as they further age (male flowers on the upper part of spadix and female on the lower part). Most plants in a colony will vanish by mid-summer (become dormant), but the mature, hermaphroditic flowering plant will produce a cluster of red berries in mid to late summer which becomes visible as the spathe withers. Roots contain calcium oxalate (same chemical as in Diffenbachia or dumb cane) and are poisonous.
Another garden thug that should never be sold in Plant Nurseries. My Jack in the pulpit was behaving very well for the first years I had it. Then one year it produced those red berries and thereafter it began to compete with the Chameleon plant for space in this area under the rhodo. So, in 2023 I dug out both of these plants (not realizing the toxcity of the Jack in the pulpit). And continue to get rid of any bits of them I find. Also using mulch under the rhodo hopefully to smother them a bit.
The full story on the Jack in the pulpit.
SCHIZOSTYLIS - river lily, Kaffir lily (Hesperantha coccinea)
Hesperantha coccinea is a flowering plant in the family Iridaceae, native to Southern Africa and Zimbabwe.
It is a semievergreen perennial growing to 60 cm tall, with slender lanceolate leaves up to 40 cm (16 inches) long and 1 cm broad. It grows next to the metal boot skraper next to the steps up to the deck and just back of the Rhodos. There are also some of these river lily in pots on the patio area.
More about the Kaffir lily .
RHODODENDRONS - Lee's dark purple - by the deck steps
- Royal purple - by the deck steps
- Catawbiense Boursault - purple - by the deck steps
One of these above 3 rhodos was moved to behind the old garage in the woodland. None of them are actually purple, all three are pink.
These rhodos have spread out to fill the space by the steps with ferns and moss around them. I try to keep the spent blossoms cut off so the plants do not put their energy into growing seed. I mulch under them with leaf mold when I get time.
More about growing rhodos.
HELLEBORES: Christmas or Lenten Rose
Between the 2 rhodos by the back steps there is a dark purple hellebore. It looks good and healthy. A couple of years ago I divided it and will keep it growing within its alotted space. There may be extras growing under the deck. The hellebores get mulched along with the rhodos. There is a volunteer bronze fennel growing in front of this Hellebore and has more moss and ferns growing behind it and on under the steps and the deck. Both of my hellebores blossoms face downwards, which is too bad because the blossoms are very attractive. The white hellebore with red speckled blossoms, was also divided and moved to the other side of the field stone stepping stones that lead under the deck.
More about growing hellebores.
The next rhodo has a hosta growing beside it.
HOSTA:
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are a popular garden plant for very simple reasons. Hostas don't need sun; they thrive in shade and part-shade, unlike many other plants. And hostas are extremely easy to care for and propagate. Plus, as perennials, hostas come back every year with proper care.
I am not sure which variety this one is. It has variegated green and yellow leaves with lavender flowers, and is a medium size. It adds brightness to this spot. It is surrounded by moss and ferns and grows next to the field stone stepping stones that lead under the deck and meet the dry stream where they disappear in the moss and ferns.
Information on how to grow hostas
AZALEA:
Across the stepping stones from the hosta and one of the pink rhodos there is a white azalea, that also adds brightness to this entry to under the deck. The AZALEA, the white flowering HELLEBORE, and the lovely big
RHODODENDRON - 'Hyperion' are intertwined in the area next to the deck post. I keep them all pruned to the space that is available. They have moss growing under them and sometimes get mulched also. The WELSH POPPIES self seed around in the moss adding a touch of elegance to this drystream area. It seems they are perennials and like it drier. Well I like the combination of them and the dark green moss.
Information about the HYPERION RHODODENDRON.
Information about the WELSH POPPIES.
ROCK FERN
- Must be the Korean Rock fern. Cannot find the native variety. Planted by the support post of the deck next to the nice big rhodo. I see this fern growing on rocks in the Spring and thereafter it dies back and goes dormant in Summer and appears again in the Spring.
HEPATICA: noblisis (Liverworte)
Next to the rock fern in the moss there is a pink hepatica. It is nicely spreading in this spot just at the edge of the deck, with the drystream behind it under the deck. In fact I have two more blue ones in different places around the garden. They seem to just pop up in unexpected spots, usually in shade under a bigger plant. They are much appreciated where ever they appear.
Information on the Hepatica or Liverworte.
ASTILBE:
Astilbe is a perennial with beautiful, showy flowers atop glossy, fern-like foliage.
Here’s how to grow and care for astilbes in your garden. Make sure to plant the division in consistently moist, humus-rich soil. Dry soil can be fatal to your plants. To prolong the foliage, provide shade from hot afternoon sun. Astilbes can grow in deep shade, but will not flower as much.
Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety.
They grow between the observation platform and the dry stream. May 2019 - they were growing through the Japanese lantern. The lantern now sits in front of the old stump where the dry stream curves under the deck; and the astilbes are doing much better now. They need more oak leaf mulch to feed them.
Astilbes from my old plant list: Sprite - Pink dwarf
Finale - Pink
Bridal Veil - White
Mount Etna - Red
More information on Astilbes.
DWARF ENGLISH BOXWOOD: Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa'
There are plastic stepping stones from the viewing platform down to what will be the seating area under the deck by the wall of the house. There is a short boxwood hedge from the viewing platform over to the deck post.
This little hedge adds detail to the area under the deck. The boxwood seems to grow very well in this shade.
There is another of these small boxwood hedges across the pond from this one, that is in front of the Yew hedge. Though it is not immediately noticeable, the boxwood hedges are about the same length and height.
More information about the Dwarf English Boxwood.
CLEMATIS: Nelly Moser
The clematis grows beside the viewing platform and climbs up to the deck where it surrounds the water tub feature with blooms for most of the summer. It is a wonderful addition to the garden. I have a delephinium that persists in growing with the clematis. I have some wire supports that keep the clematis growing close to the deck.
More information on the Nelly Moser Clematis.
There are FOXGLOVES volunteering all around the garden. There are some volunteer bronze fennel growing along with the rhodendrons and around the back garden rooms.
FEATURES around the edges of deck:
There is a seahorse by the little retaining wall in front of the rhodo.
There is a field stone stepping stone path that enters under the deck from the rhodo by the hosta and the deck post area. Duck your head, this garden area was built for garden gnomes.
The drystream starts next to the pond and runs past the astilbes, makes a curve at the old stump and the Japanese lantern, runs along the edge of the deck to the deck post where it makes another curve and disappears in the ferns.
The viewing platform is about 4 ft. by 4 ft. made of cement pavers and a few flat rocks. There are plastic stepping stones that enter under the deck and go to the seating area by the wall of the house.
This brings us to the end of the deck where we join the thrashed cedar privacy hedge and the unmentionable, less than the required 5 foot strip, between the nefarious neighbours and my propery.
These people are constantly destroying my plants along this whole side of my property, from the back fence to the street out front. They insist on having the cedar hedge, the camillia and other plants cut right back to what they consider the property line. They have added a plank on my property along beside the cedar hedge and so encroaching even more on my propery. They have cut down 2 little cedars that were at the other end of the house. God knows what else they have been doing to the rhodos and the camillia. There is a little azalea that has been killed. They throw the weeds and leaves they take out of their garden at the back over onto my garden. And have cut branches off the Oak tree. Their laundry post is on the property line. They moved from the first place they had it, after the inspection was done on their building, as well as some more feet onto that end of their house. They steal any gardening tools I leave out. They throw things into the pond, including the mermaid. They pick fruit off my plum tree. Some day, perhaps on selling the place, I will need a Surveyor's Certificate and then the ship will hit the sand.
All this aside for now, I will be attempting to re-establish the privacy hedge under the deck.
Annual Gardening pages
January - we occasionally get snow.
February - more rain, and some
bulbs up
March - first spring bulbs
blooming
April - rock plants blooming,
grass needs mowing, fruit trees blooming
May - the garden is in full
swing
June - lovely warm days of
medium temperatures and roses in bloom
July - we need to water a lot
in the summer as we do not often get rain.
August - the Fall perennials
starting to bloom and fruit is ripening
September - harvest time in the
vegetable garden and time to plant the winter garden
October - glorious fall colors
and sunsets, fruit ripening and rains begin again
November - sometimes a lovely
month with the Fall colors and warm rains
December - more rain, the garden
is mostly greens and browns, very peaceful.
Annual Journal Notes - This is the first page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2012 when I began to keep my garden notes on my computer. See the bottom of this first page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2013 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2013 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2014 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2014 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2015 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2015 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2016 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2016 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2017 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2017 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2018 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2018 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2019 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2019 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2020 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2020 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2021 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2021 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2022 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2022 from my garden journal . See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2023 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2023 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2024 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2024 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2025 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2025 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Annual Journal Notes 2026 - This is the page of the annual Journal Notes excerpts beginning in 2026 from my garden journal. See the bottom of this page to go to the Journal Notes for the next year.
Outline of the garden changes - This is the first page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden.
A description of the garden rooms - This is the second page of a series of three giving a tour of the my garden, and showing the creation of the garden rooms as well as some of the renovations over the years.
Annual Garden changes photo albums The third page of the series will be annual photo albums of the changes in the garden for the year, beginning in 2009.
